Decorative Finishing Resources

Decorative Finishing – Antiquing, Distressing, Two-Tones
Be inspired with these great tips, step-by-step instructions, and videos! Got questions? We’d be happy to help.

Squidoo Lens – Collection of Furniture Finishing Articles, Books, and More

General Finishes’ Decorative Finishing Techniques

Wiki How – How to Apply a Two Tone Finish to Furniture – Step by Step Instructions

Wiki How – How to Create a Leather Look – Step by Step Instructions

Wiki How – How to Create a Faux Antique– Step by Step Instructions

Wiki How – How to Create a Faux Marble Finish– Step by Step Instructions

Wiki How – How to Create a Sponge Effect on Furniture– Step by Step Instructions

How to Create a Country Table with Milk Paints

YouTube Video – How to Create Decorative Finishes with Waterborne Stains and Paints

Gelco Woodcraft Unfinished Furniture – New Jersey’s & New York’s Favorite Furniture Store

Distressing is the technique of marking wood to mimic the character of generations of use. The most common form is distress sanding. Other tools can be used to give further aging dimension to wood; hammers, nails, screws, old hardware, literally anything you can pound into the wood that would leave an imprint. This look: Somerset Gold Milk Paint sanded off.

Antiquing is a another form of distressing using sanding techniques combined with either Glazing or a second color of Milk Paint - giving the appearance of an old piece of furniture that has been well taken care of over the years but has slight natural wear on the doors, edges, or sides. For more design ideas (PDF), click here. The look of distressing and antiquing is enhanced on furniture with moldings and raised panels. This look: Antique White Milk Paint over Cypress Green Furniture Paint.

Glazing is the process of applying a translucent color to the surface, and then rubbing off the excess to create decorative effects. Often called "color washing" or "burnishing", Glaze will put a "wash of translucent color" over the base color underneath. Click here to see more samples of this technique (PDF). When Glaze is applied with techniques such as sponging, ragging or Strie', more unique looks can be achieved. This look: Basil Green Paint sanded off, followed by Red Sienna Glaze.

Sponging or Color Washing is the process of applying a translucent color to the surface, and then pouncing the Glaze with a dampened sea sponge or soft cloth. To achieve an aged patina, apply an additional lighter Glaze over a darker Glaze. This look: Yellow Ochre Glaze over Antique White Milk Paint.

Strie' (Dragging)The word strie' is French, meaning to comb through the Glaze mixture with dry dragging tools such as a brush, in order to create fine lines and to reveal the base coat color underneath. This look: Red Sienna Glaze over Buttermilk Yellow Milk Paint.

Wet Color Blending This free form wet-finish application is known for its subtle variations in color and soft natural glow.  Supremely versatile, it can be adapted to any piece of furniture. This look: Cranberry Red Wood Stain diluted with water based Top Coat over Snow White Milk paint.

Marble Effects is a timeless decorative finish that adds interest to furniture. When creating marble effects, keep it "real". Choose surfaces that realistically would be made of marble, such as table or dresser tops. This look: Whitewash Wood Stain with Lamp Black Milk Paint. 

Pickling is simply applying a light color stain to wood; then wiping off the stain to let the color of the wood show through. This look: Whitewash Wood Stain wiped off.

Crackle technique adds a beautiful, worn elegance to any piece of furniture. When used with General Finishes water based Wood Stains or Milk Paints, the crackle medium contracts, fracturing the top stain coat and exposing the base coat beneath. Within minutes, you can duplicate the effects of years of natural weathering. Perfect  for that special touch- just crackle the drawer fronts or door panels for a weathered, aged look. This look:  Buttermilk Yellow Milk Paint over Antique White Milk Paint.

Antique Wood Graining  Also known as "faux bois", wood graining is a timeless wood finish that adds warmth and beauty to any piece. This look:  Antique Cherry Wood Stain over a Brick Red Milk Paint.

Note: These instructions are for use with General Finishes Water Based Products. Visit our Water Based Finishes Application Guide for basic water based finish application instructions.  Always follow the instructions for preparation of the wood. We recommend using a practice board to preview your technique and color combinations before beginning your project.

TOP

Distressing and antiquing with General Finishes Milk Paints and Glazes

In the following 5 examples, several layers of Milk Paints, Glazes and water based Top Coats are combined in the tradition of old world craftsmen to create unique, distressed looks in any color palette. The work goes fast as water based finishes dry much more quickly. Choose from any of following designs or create your own. Click here for more antiquing designs and color suggestions (PDF).  The look of distressing and antiquing is enhanced on furniture with moldings and raised panels.

Two Color Antiquing With Glaze

• The look of distressing and antiquing is enhanced on furniture with moldings and raised panels, so choose your piece accordingly.
• Start by working on a test board first to perfect your skills and see an example of what your finished project will look like. Do not practice on your new furniture.
• Paint on a coat of your selected Milk Paint color. 
• Let dry and add a second coat.
• Buff between coats with #220 sandpaper or superfine sanding sponge.
• Apply a layer of water based Top Coat. Allow the Top Coat to dry 2 to 4 hours before applying Glaze. The Top Coat causes the Glaze to slide on the painted surface and allows more open time to wipe the Glaze off. Optional: For a heavily glazed look, skip this Top Coat layer.
• Using #100 to 120 grit sandpaper, sand edges of raised panels, doors, drawers and corners of cabinet all the way through to bare wood. Sand heavily for a more rustic look.

TOP

Tips on Distress Sanding

• Do not use an orbital sander on flat surfaces, as the Glaze will pick up any imperfections in sanding, particularly the circular motion of orbital sanders.
• Hand sanding is usually preferred.  However, if you are experienced, you may carefully use an orbital or other power sander to sand corners and edges to expose the raw wood.  Then finish with hand sanding.  Practice first to test your skills.
• Sand the areas you want antiqued with a power sander using #100 grit sandpaper to enhance edges, corners, around door knobs, etc. The look you are trying to obtain is a slightly distressed piece, so don't hold the sander in one spot too long.
• Do one side at a time.
• After you have finished a section, wipe it down with a slightly damp cloth to remove dust and reveal the bare wood or base coat of finish underneath, creating the look of slightly worn areas. Be careful not to sand too hard after you have wiped a section with the damp cloth. Sanding damp finish will cause more paint to come off. Gradually sand all areas.
• After you have completed initial sanding with a power sander, finish by hand sanding the edges, corners, and moldings using either a #220 gray foam sanding pad or #400 grit sandpaper.
• Think about where extra wear would be from using the door knobs, etc. You will notice as you sand that different pressures expose varied amounts of undercoat. The doors of furniture get the most wear, so open and close the doors and take notice of where your hands are. Imagine over time how much the areas are used and touched. This should help you decide what areas need to be more distressed.
• If your piece has a lot of flat surfaces, additional hand sanding on random areas of the surface will give final look more character.
• If you are working with bead board and moldings, it is not necessary to sand flat surfaces heavily. The moldings and bead board will pick up the Glaze, increasing the depth of color and character.

• Pour Glaze color into a paper plate covered with aluminum foil or painter’s tray. Working one small section at a time, apply the Glaze liberally with a foam brush, synthetic brush or paint pad over entire section, keeping the surface wet with Glaze.
• Wipe off excess with absorbent wiping cloths or paper towels to achieve desired look. Do not use Tee-shirts. The Glaze will color your sanded areas and give the painted sections an aged look.
• If you want to rework a section, simply rewet the working area with Glaze.
• Work quickly, so that the Glaze color does not dry before finishing a section. If necessary, mask off smaller sections around raised areas such as bead board and moldings. Glazes dry fairly quickly, so plan your sections before beginning.
• If working in high temperatures or low humidity, Glaze Effects may be thinned with 10-20% water or General Finishes Extender (3 to 6 oz. per quart) to improve open time for application.
• Let dry 2-4 hours. Apply water based Top Coat for additional durability or to increase sheen.

The following Glaze finishes are interesting to use on an entire piece or just a drawer front or door panel.  All of the following techniques require the same basic process as above. The difference is in how the Glaze is applied and removed.  TOP

 Sponging or Color Washing (additive technique)

This is the process of applying a translucent color to the surface, and then pouncing the Glaze with a dampened sea sponge or soft cloth. To achieve a more aged patina, apply an additional Glaze layers. This look: Yellow Ochre Glaze over Antique White Milk Paint.

• Start by working on a test board first to perfect your skills and see an example of what your finished project will look like.  Do not practice on your new furniture.
• Work in sections, masking where appropriate.  If working with panels of molding and bead board, treat those areas as sections, masking them off. 
• Paint on a base coat of your selected Milk Paint color. 
• Let dry and add a second coat.
• Buff between coats with #220 sandpaper or superfine sanding sponge.
• Apply a layer of water based Top Coat. Allow the Top Coat to dry 2 to 4 hours before applying Glaze. The Top Coat allows the Glaze to slide on the painted surface and increases the open time to work with the Glaze.  Option : For a heavily glazed look, skip the Top Coat layer.
• Work quickly, so that the Glaze color does not dry before finishing a section.
• Dip a water-dampened sea sponge into the Glaze color or brush the Glaze color onto the sea sponge. Bunched up plastic wrap or dry paper bags can be used instead of a damp sea sponge.
• Blot excess Glaze color onto a clean rag.
• Apply the Glaze color by blotting/pouncing the sponge onto the surface until the desired affect is achieved.   Option : working with three colors - a base color, a Glaze color darker than your base color, and a third, deeper Glaze color - will result in a look with richer color depth. Allow each Glaze layer to dry.
• Turning or rotating the sponge will create a random look. Do not squeeze the sponge or push down too hard onto the surface.  You may experiment with a bunched up cloth to vary the texture.
• Re-apply the Glaze color onto the sponge as necessary.
• Continue applying the technique, blending the completed area into the newest section to avoid distinct, overlapping lines. Always maintain a wet edge as you work across the surface. (The edge or end of a wet, coated area that is still workable and will blend easily).
• Option: For a more textured look, experiment with a large paint brush to apply the Glaze mixture. Use a criss-cross motion to brush the mixture onto the surface in random strokes.  Finish this technique by feathering out any harsh brush strokes, lightly sweeping over what you have done with a clean dry brush.
• Finish by applying two or three coats of water based Top Coat, sanding in between coats with a super fine foam sanding pad or #320 sandpaper.

Ragging On (additive technique)

• Start by working on a test board first to perfect your skills and see an example of what your finished project will look like.  Do not practice on your new furniture.
• Work in sections.
• Paint on a base coat of your selected Milk Paint color. 
• Let dry and add a second coat.
• Buff between coats with #220 sandpaper or superfine sanding sponge.
• Apply a layer of water based Top Coat. Allow the Top Coat to dry 2 to 4 hours before applying Glaze. The Top Coat allows the Glaze to slide on the painted surface and increases the open time to work the Glaze coat. Optional: For a heavily glazed look, skip the Top Coat layer.
• Submerge a water-dampened rag into the Glaze color and wring out the excess.
• Apply a second layer of either Glaze or furniture paint by blotting or rolling the rag onto the surface until the desired affect is achieved.  Note: Furniture Paint colors can be inter-mixed or diluted with Top Coat to make custom colors.
• Frequently re-arrange and re-scrunch the rag to create random natural look.
• Work quickly, so that the Glaze color does not dry before finishing a section.
• Re-submerge the rag into the Glaze color as necessary.
• Continue applying the technique, blending the completed area into the newest section to avoid distinct, overlapping lines. Always maintain a wet edge as you work across the surface. (The edge or end of a wet, coated area that is still workable and will blend easily).
• Finish by applying two or three coats of water based Top Coat, sanding in between coats with a super fine foam sanding pad or #320 sandpaper.

Ragging Off (subtractive technique)

• Start by working on a test board first to perfect your skills and see an example of what your finished project will look like.  Do not practice on your new furniture.
• Work in sections.
• Paint on a base coat of your selected Milk Paint color. 
• Let dry and add a second coat.
• Buff between coats with #220 sandpaper or superfine sanding sponge.
• Apply a layer of water based Top Coat. Allow the Top Coat to dry 2 to 4 hours before applying Glaze. The Top Coat allows the Glaze to slide on the painted surface and increases the open time to work the Glaze coat. Optional: For a heavily glazed look, skip the Top Coat layer.
• Liberally apply a second layer of either Glaze or furniture paint by blotting or rolling the rag onto the surface until the desired affect is achieved.  Note: Furniture Paint colors can be inter-mixed or diluted with Top Coat to make custom colors.
• Using a rolled/scrunched rag, dab or roll the wet Glaze color, starting from the edges of the section. This technique will reduce "distinct or hard lines" on the surface.
• Frequently re-arrange and re-scrunch the rag to create a random and natural look.
• Work quickly, so that the Glaze color does not dry before finishing a section.
• If the rag becomes overloaded with Glaze, rinse out the rag.
• When applying the Glaze color to the next section, blend the completed area into the newest section to avoid hard, overlapping lines. Maintain a wet edge as you work across the surface. Continue applying the technique, blending the completed area into the newest section to avoid distinct, overlapping lines. Always maintain a wet edge as you work across the surface. (The edge or end of a wet, coated area that is still workable and will blend easily).
• Finish by applying two or three coats of water based Top Coat, sanding in between coats with a super fine foam sanding pad or #320 sandpaper.

Strie' or Dragging

• Start by working on a test board first to perfect your skills and see an example of what your finished project will look like.  Do not practice on your new furniture.
• Work in sections.
• Paint on a base coat of your selected Milk Paint color. 
• Let dry and add a second coat.
• Buff between coats with #220 sandpaper or superfine sanding sponge.
• Apply a layer of water based Top Coat. Allow the Top Coat to dry 2 to 4 hours before applying Glaze. The Top Coat causes Glaze to slide on the painted surface and allows open time to work the Glaze coat. Optional: For a heavily glazed look, skip the Top Coat layer.
• Liberally apply a second layer of either Glaze or furniture paint by blotting or rolling the rag onto the surface until the desired affect is achieved.  Note: Furniture Paint colors can be inter-mixed or diluted with Top Coat to make custom colors.
• Using a dry brush, lightly drag the bristles down (in one direction through the wet Glaze Color).
• Maintain a dry brush by wiping with a cloth rag after each pass.
• Continue applying Glaze and dragging until the surface is complete.
• Work quickly, so that the Glaze color does not dry before finishing a section.
• For a denim or woven look, allow the dragged surface to dry 20 minutes, then lightly apply a thin coat of Glaze color over the dragged surface while dragging the brush horizontally across.
• When applying the Glaze color to the next section, blend the completed area into the newest section to avoid hard, overlapping lines. Maintain a wet edge as you work across the surface. Continue applying the technique, blending the completed area into the newest section to avoid distinct, overlapping lines. Always maintain a wet edge as you work across the surface. (The edge or end of a wet, coated area that is still workable and will blend easily).
• Finish by applying two or three coats of water based Top Coat, sanding in between coats with a super fine foam sanding pad or #320 sandpaper.

TOP

Marble Effects

This is a timeless decorative finish that adds interest to furniture. When creating marble effects, keep it "real". Choose surfaces that realistically would be made of marble, such as table or dresser tops. Marble effects work best on closed grain woods such as pine, maple, birch, aspen, or alder. If you use "open-grain" woods, such as oak, the distinct, visible grain of these woods will show through the background of the marbleizing, and distort the look. Use your imagination! In nature, there are no two pieces of marble exactly alike. If you don’t like the results simply paint over and start again. This look : White Country Colors Stain with  Lamp Black Milk Paint. 

• A white water based Wood Stain or Milk Paint
• A black water based Wood Stain or Milk Paint
• Water based Top Coat
• Natural sponge

• Lint free cloth (old T-shirt)
• Feather
• 220-400 grit sandpaper
• Foam brushes or latex paint pad applicator

• Apply 2 coats of white water based Stain or Furniture Paint to get a solid background.
• Allow each coat to dry for 2 hours. Then lightly sand the surface to a smooth finish using a super fine foam sanding pad.
• Dip the tip of the feather in a black water based Stain or Furniture Paint and draw the marble veins on the surface in a diagonal direction. Use a slow, twisting motion with the feather as you drag the color across the surface. Veins should look like lightning bolts or tree branches, each vein roughly parallel to the one next to it. Avoid a crisscross pattern. Veins should continue from edge to edge. Allow the veins to dry for 5 minutes.
• Pour equal parts of a white water based Stain or Furniture Paint and water based Top Coat into a paper plate covered with aluminum foil or painter’s tray.
• Dip the dampened sponge into this mixture and then blot the excess on a paper towel.
• Apply the mixture color by blotting/pouncing the sponge onto the surface until the desired affect is achieved.  Lift the sponge - do not drag it. The sponge will soften the veins, covering them slightly.  Let this dry 5 minutes.
• Next, fold a cloth into a pad making sure there are no wrinkles on the bottom side. Wrinkles will leave an undesirable pattern on the surface. A latex paint pad applicator can also be used. Blot the entire surface with the clean applicator by pouncing the surface, lifting the pad straight up and down, blending the black veins into the white background.
• Using the black color, lightly accentuate the veins again with the feather.  Allow this to dry 2 hours.
• Finish by applying two or three coats of water based Top Coat, sanding in between coats with a

Wet Color Blending

This free form wet-finish application is known for its subtle variations in color and soft natural glow.  Supremely versatile, it can be adapted to any piece of furniture. This look: Cranberry Red Wood Stain diluted with water based Top Coat over Snow White Milk paint.

• Apply a base coat of color water based Wood Stain or Furniture Paint.  While the first color is still wet, immediately apply a second color over the base color.  
• Then brush out the two colors using a dry bristle brush. This will blend the two colors to create a softer shade with interesting texture.
• Let the piece dry and apply two or three coats of  water based Top Coat, sanding in between coats with a super fine foam sanding pad 320 sandpaper.

A second method of color washing:

• Apply a base coat of colored water based Wood Stain or Furniture Paint.  Allow this to dry.
• Apply a layer of water based Top Coat to prevent color blending. Allow the Top Coat to dry 2 to 4 hours.
• Apply a second color.  While the second color is still wet, wipe off corners, edges of moldings etc. to reveal the color layer underneath.  
• Let the piece dry and apply two or three coats of  water based Top Coat, sanding in between coats with a super fine foam sanding pad.

TOP

Pickling

Pickling is simply applying a light color stain to wood; then wiping off the stain to let the color of the wood show through.  The most popular Pickle color is white, however any color can be used.  This look: Whitewash Wood Stain wiped off.

• Apply any water based Wood Stain and wipe off as much as you want while letting the wood grain show through the stain. The look you want to achieve is a soft subtle color.
• Let the piece dry and apply two or three coats of water based Top Coat, sanding in between coats with a super fine foam sanding pad.

Another pickling method is the French Provincial look which requires two stain coats.

• First apply a light color Wood Stain and let dry for 2 hours.
• Then apply a coat of  water based Top Coat and let dry for 2 hours.
• Finally add the look of age by applying a wash coat of white stain. Push the White into the edges of raised panels or into detail areas such as carvings.
• Wipe off the stain from the other areas and let dry.
• Finish by applying two or three coats of water based Top Coat, sanding in between coats with a super fine foam sanding pad or #320 sandpaper.

TOP

Crackle

This technique adds a beautiful, worn elegance to any piece of furniture.  When used with water based Wood Stains or Milk Paints, the crackle medium contracts, fracturing the top stain coat and exposing the base coat beneath.  Within minutes, you can duplicate the effects of years of natural weathering.  Perfect  for that special touch- just crackle the drawer fronts or door panels for a weathered, aged look. This look:  Buttermilk Yellow Milk Paint over Antique White Milk Paint.

• Use a Crackle medium with water based Wood Stains or Milk Paints to produce a weathered, aged look. The Crackle contracts when a water-based stain is applied over it.  As the Crackle contracts, it fractures the top stain coat and exposes the base coat beneath.
• You will need two base colors (choose from Wood Stain or Milk Paint), crackle medium and water based Top Coat.
• Begin with a base coat of Wood Stain or Milk Paint. This will be the color that shows through the cracks.  Let this base coat dry for 2 hours.  It is not necessary to sand this coat.
• Apply Crackle with a foam brush or latex paint pad.  A thin application produces thin cracks, and thicker application produce wider cracks. Let the crackle dry overnight.
• Then brush on a relatively thick coat of your chosen second color. Do not over brush - just make one pass. The cracking effect will begin in minutes.
• Let the piece dry and apply two or three coats of  water based Top Coat, sanding in between coats with a super fine foam sanding pad or #320 sandpaper.

TOP

Antique Wood Graining

 Also known as "faux bois", wood graining is a timeless wood finish that adds warmth and beauty to any piece.

This look:  Antique Cherry Wood Stain over a Brick Red Milk Paint.

• Buy a graining comb or you can create one by beveling the end of a piece of corrugated cardboard with a razor knife. This will expose the ripples in the cardboard.
• Apply 2 coats of Milk Paint or Wood Stain, allowing them both to dry.
• Then sand the surface with #320 or finer grade sandpaper or superfine foam sanding pad.
• Apply a layer of  water based Top Coat to prevent color blending.
• Allow each coat to dry for 2 hours.
• Apply a heavy coat of a Antique Cherry (or any other dark color) Wood Stain directly over the base color with a poly foam brush or latex paint pad. Allow the stain to set for 5 minutes.
• Drag the comb across the stain to remove most of the top layer of color, allowing the base color to show through. The result will look like wood grain. You can purchase commercial graining combs from craft supply stores to create a different look.
• To create knots, dip a small foam brush in the dark secondary color, and twirl the end of the foam brush on your piece in random places of the grain.
• Let the piece dry and apply two or three coats of  water based Top Coat, sanding in between coats with a super fine foam sanding pad.